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  3. Welcome sir. You'll likely see a few common friends from 308 over here as well.
  4. I have been a long time member of the 308AR site. Like most normal people, I have a variety of things to amuse myself.
  5. Man, I'm starting to think the 'rona got everyone. Nah, j/k. But it has been dreadfully slow here.
  6. Any chance you are still making selling these bad boys?
  7. Hi, I shoot 3 pistols with my mp15-22 and the others are improving their weapon, mine is not competitive yet and I would like to improve my weapon. I already have an MOE-K2 + grip, Magpul CTR stock, Taccom3g Ultralight handguard, Tacticool22 Charging handle, and MTAC Burris scope. I would like a 1 step trigger that weighs more than 3 lbs, but I haven't found any that weighs more than 3 lbs. Which is the best ? Is it worth changing the barrel and the extractor? Which are the best? I would also like to know if it is worthwhile to put a compensator and which one. I know it's a lot of questions, but it's very helpful for me. Thank you very much. .
  8. I saw foundry outdoors have https://www.foundryoutdoors.com/collections/5-56x45-ammo-ar-15
  9. Aloha everyone 🤙 im new to the rimfire world and looking forward to choosing my very first rifle soon. Hope to learn from others experiences here! Mahalo🙏👊
  10. Hopefully when i retire I’ll have more time to experiment with a bunch of different 22 rounds!..... it says 100 yards and beyond, how far is “beyond”
  11. I was pretty surprised but my Mark IV loves Armscor 22
  12. Rifling82


    Hello everyone. Look forward to learning from everyone, looks like a good place to hang out
  13. Took the GSG5 out of the safe today. Ran a couple mags through with no issues. Then it failed to fire. Attempt to pull the bolt back and it gets about half way back and stops. It ejected the spent round and loaded a fresh round but did not cock. The bolt retracts enough to let the next round out until just the case is out of the chamber but the bullet is still in so I cannot remove that round. Any thoughts as to the way forward?
  14. I accidentally ordered the California complaint 416 22. It was just shipped and cannot be returned. I’ve not received it yet but I’m curious if anyone knows the differences and if it would be easy to convert the stock to a standard stock or is it a specific weird California size? i don’t mind the mag limitation as I can buy different mags. But I’m wondering if this is going to be a big difference and if I should just sell it. thanks,
  15. Does anyone out there know if a model 241 barrel will fit on a model 24?
  16. Come on folks, this could be a really great site if everybody came back to create some civil conversation pertaining to the BEST caliber firearms there ever were, are and will be. I'll bet none of us started out shooting a .458 Winchester Model 70, or worse yet a Weatherby .340 Weatherby Magnum. 10 to 1, most everyone who visits here at one time or another, began their first shooting experience with a .22 rimfire. The heck with those others who think they are the "premier" rimfire sites, like RFC. They've gone down the toilet with much of what gets passed along there as fact for the last 5, or more, years. There's more bickering and false statements that are posted there than anywhere else on the inter-web. Here's a great chance to get the truth about rimfire firearms and how they function and can be repaired, than that floundering forum will ever know, or accept. I'm willing to do what I can to resurrect activity here and invite you all to send all your rimfire friends to at least visit this site and "lurk" for a while, or better yet, contribute your rimfire experiences with all the the others who stop by. Like, what is your current .22 rimfire, rifle or handgun?
  17. SGW Gunsmith


    .22 rimfire ammunition is the most dirtiest of all metallic cartridge ammunition. I use a "Simple Green" type of cleaner in my ultra-sonic apparatus. Due to that stuff being water soluble, a good wipe down after the parts are dried with a product like EEZOX is a good idea
  18. Well, it's now 2020, and there are some really effective synthetic gun cleaning solvents currently available. The brand that I have on my bench currently is EEZOX. this CLP is easy to use, I just run two wet fel cylinders soaked with EEZOX through the bore, let it sit for 15 minutes and then dry the bore with a dry fely plug: If a centerfire bore has a bullet jacket coating involved, then, if you can stand the ammonia smell, Sweete's 7.62, will get the fouling out in short order, just don't leave the bore wet and once cleaned, a light coating of oil will protect the bore.
  19. Fire lapping .22 rimfire bores with the grit impregnated lead bullets has been known to move the leade area just ahead of the chamber forward, sometimes more than ¼ of an inch. Consider this before you do ANY lapping in a .22 rimfire bore. The rifling to bore height is only 0.0020 to 0.0025 of an inch and that's less than the thickness of a sheet of computer paper. Lapping will easily ruin a nice bore, if over-done.
  20. Is that a "threaded spud" on the table that you used get the threads for the compensator aligned with the bore?
  21. There are some web-site myths that just seem to get carried along, even though those that repeat the "myth" have never actually done any testing, or experimenting to see if in fact, they're true. One of those myths were started by a web-site owner who fancies himself as being a gun "Dr.". That myth involves the use of the bolt stop thumb piece as a "bolt release" to allow the bolt to go forward and charge a new round into the chamber, after the empty magazine is removed and a fresh, full magazine has been installed. The claim is, that using the bolt stop thumb piece to release the bolt will cause damage to the bolt face and the rear face of the bolt stop assembly. My testing and experimenting has not proven that to be so. When the thumb piece is used to release the bolt, the rear face of the bolt stop assembly actually just "slides down" and off the bolt face very easily. Not an action that could cause any damage as the Dr. has professed in his prognosis, or that ding in my bolt. Here's what I have found: The above is a picture of a brand new bolt out of a brand new out-of-the-box Ruger Mark IV Competition Target that has only had the "sling-shot" procedure used to load a fresh round from a full magazine. Still, as you can see, there is a "ding" in the bolt face, but how did that ding get there? It was caused by the rear end of the bolt stop assembly after the magazine follower button has pushed the bolt stop assembly upward and the front of the bolt crashed into the bolt stop to hold the bolt in the rear position so that the empty magazine can be released and a fresh, full magazine can be inserted. The ding on the front face of the bolt is just a part of the process involved with these pistols and NOT caused by using the bolt stop thumb piece to release the bolt after a fresh magazine is inserted. This is what I have found to be the case, and I use the thumb piece to release the bolts on all my Ruger Mark pistols that allow it. As long as the damage is as minimal as shown above, the process will never impede anything involved with proper function.
  22. Low velocity shorts or longs for garden varmints so the neighbors don't whine.
  23. I've been involved by working on, and with, Ruger Mark pistols for 50+ years now. There isn't much that I haven't seen that can go wrong with these pistols, or haven't been able to correct fairly easily. I have extensive notes, kept over the years, as to the ways and means of correcting any issues that, while they are rare, they do befall these fine pistols now and then. Some will post that if there's an issue with a Mark pistol, send it back to Ruger. Well that is an option, but they really don't take the time to actually "fix" a specific issue, they just change parts until they feel the pistol meets their current standards. If the issues you are having are brought here, and you are one who likes to do things yourself, solutions can be obtained with a visit here and just asking a question. Many times you will even get a pictorial view that I have on file that will guide you. I see many "gimmicks" that have been engineered by some very thoughtful folks who have solutions to problems with the Ruger Mark pistols that really don't exist, if you follow the basic disassembly and reassembly methods as done by the factory. I even have some solutions whereby you can prevent a catastrophe before it causes your language to go south. From what I've seen here, so far, is the potential to have the BEST rimfire site that there is, as long as all the actions remain and conversations stay civil and discussion also remains that way we all may just learn something new..
  24. Any single shot, pump action or bolt action rifle will handle all three rounds. Don't know why anyone would want to spent the money for .22 Longs these days when .22 Long Rifle ammunition is easier to find and costs less.
  25. This is the Ruger Mark III 22/45 10149 version that has been setup to shoot CCI Quiet .22 ammunition at 710 FPS exclusively. Complete function did require a "prototype bolt" that weighs less than half of the Ruger factory steel bolt at 5 ounces though:
  26. Here are a couple of my Ruger Mark II pistols. The top pistol is the Ruger Mark II Competition Target, the bottom pistol is the civilian version of the Ruger Mark II Government version with the 6 7/8th Bull Barrel: The Ruger Mark II Government version, was commissioned by the Government contract to have a "roller-burnished" chamber and laser targeted sights from the factory. Barrel twist is still 1:16, same as all the Ruger Mark pistols after the very early production versions, like the one posted above. That's a very nice pistol by the OP and one that is a very desirable one by collectors. Nice find!
  27. I know, this is an older thread, but it is still an interesting one. Ruger doesn't provide much for good lookin' grip panels, but more toward the functional, replace 'em if you like, variety. Life's too short to have fugly grip panels on your Ruger pistol:
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