bdavison

Yeah, Im thinking the wallet rape, might be worth it on this one. :grin:

New News... Our buddies over at GEMTECH are releasing a brand new .22 dedicated suppressed upper for the AR platform. "The GEMTECH T2 is a dedicated, suppressor-integrated .22LR upper receiver for the M16/AR-15 family of weapons. Perfect for short barreled or machinegun M16s, the T2 sysetm is easy-to-clean, large volume/low-blowback suppressor component. The suppressor component mates to a proven .22lr bolt and barrel system that fits on your carbine or machinegun for low-cost, super-quiet training or plinking. The GEMTECH T2 comes with a special barrel with an erosion-resistant, built-in muzzle device that protects the suppressor from unburned powder and heat from full-auto fire. The barrel and suppressor core tuck neatly under a special Picatinny rail handguard, allowing the mounting of forward stops, grips, and optics. The T2 system includes the .22lr bolt, barrel, upper receiver, rail handguard, and suppressor. The .22lr conversion utilizes any standard Black Dog Manufacturing .22lr magazines, and your existing charging handle, not included." No confirmed pics yet, but this pic might have been snuck out of the factory?

Yes, you may!

I've posted some hi-res pics of the 522 on my blog since I couldnt post them here. They are located at http://sigsauer522.blogspot.com/ In the hopes that I dont step on anyones toes here at tactical22.net......Ive put a big write up on there with a link to you guys also.

The reason the bolt action doesnt kick as much as the 522 is because of the bolt....the 522's bolt is slamming rearward...so yeah, it will kick a bit more. .22 is complete opposite of a centerfire as far as recoil is involved. Centerfire, most of the recoil is produced by the round itself, .22 most of the recoil is from the bolt slamming back (if a semi-auto) Spring pellet rifles are the worse, because they have both a forward and a backward recoil which has a tendancy to reak havoc with shots, and utterly destroy even the most robust centerfire scopes. Thats why most of the competition pellet rifle shooters have switched to air tank based shooting. I personally wonder if replacing the metal block at the end of the buffer spring with a nylon one would dampen recoil. Ill test it with mine, and let you know. I know they make nylon replacement rods for the 10/22 that perform this function, so it would serve to say it would work for the 522 also.

Just set the building on fire with a flashbang....then you have plenty of light :grin:

That new Big Brother tracking device. C:-) JK Its a Nutech Barcode. Smith&Wesson is using them for inventory/tracking purposes. It allows them to see a bunch of information, like when the gun was manufacturered, and if you send it in for warrenty work, they can see any previous work done to the gun. You can read more about it here... http://www.nutechsystems.com/System%20i/Nutech%20Components/License%20Plating.html

I remember the first time my dad put a gun in my hands. It was a Crossman 1077 pump pellet gun on Christmas day. He wouldnt let me go shoot it until he could set up "the range" in the backyard. He made this target stand with little metal rings that would spin when hit. Once I got good hitting them, he would put matchsticks out there, and tell me to shoot them in half....or light one. I did manage to light a few, but most of the time I just blew the heads off the matches. And so began a lifelong passion for shooting. I think I've fired just about every round out there at one time or another, and Im not done yet.

SBR , and the suppressor paperwork. I dont know if it would work or not, but thats a lot of hassle for a .22

Im kinda curious too. Im guessing at that price, the entire thing is polymer like the M&P 15-22. They should have made the carry handle removable, but at least they put a picatinny on top. Im waiting for the Knights Armament .22 AR...LOL....might be waiting a long time though.

Ive been asked by a couple of other shooters how to install a suppressor onto the Sig Sauer 522. So here is the tutorial. First off, Check to make sure the rifle is empty, remove the upper receiver from the gun, and remove the bolt, remove the handguards. Second, Grasp the barrel firmly with your hand. DO NOT GRAB THE RECIEVER, or anywhere else on the gun. You will ONLY use your hand. Dont use pliers, vise grips, etc, or you will damage the barrel. Third, Place a 3/4" wrench on the flash hider as shown in the photo. Fourth, use a wooden mallet to gently tap the wrench. It may take 3-4 light taps to break it loose. You do NOT need to hit it hard. Fifth, once the flash hider is loose, unscrew it off the end of the barrel. Sixth, attach your choice of flash hider or suppressor. The threads on the end of the barrel are 1/2-28 threads, which are compatible with many different suppressors available on the market. Now in regards to suppressors. You can go with a fake one such as those made by Sparks Tactical, MFI, etc. These type fake suppressors do not require the BATFE $200 tax stamp. OR.... You can go file the BATFE form 1, and get your $200 tax stamp and order a real suppressor. I'd recommend the Gemtech Outback II. If you are rich, Id recommend getting a Gemtech in 5.56 Nato. That way you can use the suppressor on either your 522, or a AR later if you so choose. Of course you will want to use Subsonic ammunition to get the full effect of suppression. Enjoy!

There are some things that might help you. 1. Aspirin....improves circulation and may help your muscles relax. 2. Cardio training. Blood flow to muscles tends to help a lot with calming the shakes 3. Working on your body positioning. Elbows down, use your frame to stabilize the shot. 4. Take a few deep breaths before shooting and get some O2 to your blood flow. 5. Stretch those muscles to get them to relax. 6. Keep your head up straight. It improves blood flow to your brain, eyes, and makes your inner ear work better for balance. You move the rifle to your head to get sight picture, not your head to the rifle. 7. Lay off the caffeine. Soda,Coffee,Tea, etc, its all bad for the shakes. 8. Make sure you are properly hydrated. And heres another little tip for those shaky limbs. Fill up a old sock with dirt, or something heavy like shot. Put it in your elbow, and let your arm rest under its weight while shooting. We used weighted jackets to accomplish the same thing, but the idea is the same.

Bear in mind that this does not just apply to paper targets....even other targets can be approached with the same mindset. For instance, Instead of aiming at the deer, and start thinking "Im going to put my round in that tuft of hair sticking out". Instead of aiming at the bowling pin, start thinking "Im going to put my round through the dot over the letter "i" in the Brunswick label. Just by using this one simple thought process, you will be amazed at how much tighter your groups become.

Ive never used their shotshell press, but I have used Lee presses before, and they are top notch in my book. I dont think you will save much money reloading though. Costs for reloading primers and cases, and powder has gone through the roof, and now its a wash as to which will save money. Unless you are loading your own match grade, or experimenting with charge, or working with a rare or odd caliber, Id stick with boxed ammo.

Does this app have trajectories programmed in it for .22, .308, and .270? or is it just for 5.56?

This is pretty common, but it can be fixed. The reason you are able to shoot accurately at non-paper targets has nothing to do with the fact that its paper vs non-paper. It has everything to do with the SIZE of the target and how your brain processes information. Your brain is focusing on the target as a whole, instead of a specific part of the target. So all you have to do is re-train your brain. There is an old saying in the competition shooting world. Which was taught to me by my coach early in my training. "Aim small, miss small" Basically, it works like this. You pick a specific small point on the paper as your target, instead of the whole target. For example, instead of aiming at the bullseye, pick a specific spot inside the bullseye. To help, take a sharpie, and put a black dot inside the bullseye, then you aim for that black dot. Remember "aim small, miss small". Your groups will get tighter in the bullseye. Then afterwards, just dont use the sharpie, but continue to mentally see that little black dot as your target. Eventually, coach took the sharpie away, and made me mentally picture the black dot...then he made me make the black dot smaller and smaller, until it was the size of a grain of sand. My groups went from dime size, down to one-hole 5 round groups.

You can also test this, by tapping the charging handle forward after the bolt cycles the first time, and pull the trigger. If it fires, after giving a little forward assist. Then you know what the problem is.

Assuming that your rifle is spotlessly clean, My thoughts as to the issue would be a weak guide rod spring. It sounds to me as if the spring is not strong enough during the return from blowback to strip a round from the magazine and fully chamber it. If its weak, it might strip a round, partially load it into the chamber, and then when the trigger is pulled, the firing pin is unable to strike the rim against the chamber face. You can check this. Fire your first round as normal, and after the bolt cycles, check the gap between the bolt face and the chamber. If the bolt face is not firmly up against the chamber face, this is likely the issue. It could also be that the guide rod is bent which would restrict the bolt's return, or that the bolt needs a little lubrication to be able to slide in the reciever. Basically, if its not fully chambered, the firing pin would be lightly flicking the rim, vs striking it firmly against the chamber.

Try the Lapua X-act, Lapua Center-X, Lapua Midas rounds. Most of the match shooters, including olympic shooters use these. Its pricey though...expect to pay around $20 per 50 rounds.

The difference between rimfire and center-fire scopes consists of the following. Eye Relief- On a center-fire rifle, you need quite a bit of eye relief so that you dont get a scope bell to the eye socket during the recoil of the rifle. Rimfire....not so much. Optics Tuning- The centerfire scope is tuned for ranges of 100 yds + to take advantage of a centerfire rifles ballistics. Since most .22 rounds tend to start wondering after 130 yds, their optics are tuned for 100 yard shooting. This fine tuning of the optics usually is to reduce parallax at the shorter ranges that most rimfire rifles would be shooting at. You may notice on many scopes, the forward bell has markings for ranges that you will be shooting at. A centerfire scope might start at 50 yards and go up to well over 500 yards. This setting is to correct the scope for parallax at that specific range. And finally, things like Bullet Drop Compensators on a centerfire scope are useless for rimfire cartridges since the ballistic trajectories are quite different. Now as far as your question, regarding if centerfire scopes can be used on rimfire rifles? YES, they can. And they can be quite effective if properly matched to the rifle and mounted. If you choose to go with a centerfire scope, if possible choose one that has a parallax adjustment from 15-150 yards to take advantage of the rimfire's ballistic range. Larger diameter scopes are preferred because they will let more light in...which is helpful if you are zoomed in at 16x at a target 100 yards away. Try to find a scope with as tight a reticle adjustment as possible. 1/8" adjustment at 100 yards or better. When shooting at .22 ranges, a 1/4" at 100 yard scope will make you hold during some shooting scenarios. If your scope is adjustable at tighter tolerances such as 1/8" or less, it will really help you zero it dead on. Steer away from BDC, or other gimmick reticles, unless they are specifically designed for .22 ballistic trajectories. If you choose a scope with an illuminated reticle, make sure that the reticle is adjustable for brightness. A overly bright reticle will create issues at .22 ranges since it tends to overpower the target.

I highly recommend the BSA Contender. specifically the 4-16x40 The front bell is adjustable for ranges from 1-150 yards which is perfect for a .22, and it does have a "infinity" setting for ranges beyond 150 yards. Since its also a zoomy, 4x to 16x it has the umph to put you up close and personal with the target. The adjustment knobs are also "re-zero" thumb knobs. So once you get it zero'd in, you can loosen the thumb knobs, and reset them so that the index marking are on zero. This way you can always return to zero from any setting, and since they are thumb knobs and not "penny" knobs, you can adjust it with your fingers. The scope is also a 1/8" scope. Many low end scopes are 1/4" scopes, which means each click moves point of impact 1/4" at 100 yards. The BSA gives you much better fine tuning as each click moves point of impact 1/8" at 100 yards. I think these scopes now come with illuminated reticles, but I dont know. Mine was an older version. Its spot on perfect for a target .22 rifle. Here is a pic of it mounted to my 522 so you can see what it looks like. Bear in mind that I have the shade mounted on the front of the scope, so appears longer than it really is. I use the shade to keep the sun from creating glare on the elements. Also, I have a bubble level installed so I can keep an eye on canting.

Judging by your description, Id say probably the safety detent spring (part 36) Shown in the pic below.... If you cant find it, open your manual to page 53, and it shows a complete parts breakdown.

One other thing.... If you do cross paths with one of these, and are considering it. Look on the frame for "Monsoon, Mass"..... That's the ones you want. If its the later Palmer ones....skip it. Also, when you get it, make sure it has the barrel wrench that came with it, and the feeler guage. Without these two tools, you wont be able to make it shoot straight, and it will shave lead off the rounds. Its critical to have the barrel gapped to the cylinder with the feeler guage, and the barrel nut properly tensioned. Back when they came out, people didnt read the instructions (big surprise) and then really whined about them. It was EEOC (Equipment Exceeds Operator Capability) for sure. I havent shot the Freedom Arms .22 yet, but I have heard that they are VERY VERY accurate if you get the Silhouette version. The only problem I see...is the cost. Nearly $2300 for the match grade 10" version is quite expensive for a .22 pistol.

I really like the gun. Most people dont know it has an adjustable trigger. It can be fired both double action, and single action. There is a screw in the bottom of the grip. You can use it to adjust the single action aspect of the pistol. It can be adjusted from "hair trigger - not so hairy" LOL. It has perhaps the best trigger of any gun I've ever fired. Even match rifles with $600 triggers. In single action, it breaks so clean, its like snapping a glass rod. I wish I could take the trigger off of it and put it on every gun I own. Its pretty much match grade out of the box. If you can see it, you can hit it. Ive had countless amounts of people attempt to buy it from me, but it will never be for sale. They also made a .357 thats identical to it. I have that pistol as well. The .357 excels when fed handloaded wadcutters. Dan Wesson made quite a few revolvers, their early stuff wasnt very good, but when they switched the design and went to that barrel nut design, they went from dud to stud. The company is still around, and lately they have been whipping out some incredibly accurate match grade 1911's. I plan to pick up one of their "Pointman" 1911 .45's pretty soon. Im hoping they will make a Pointman .22 1911

Sure, here are some pics.