dizzny1

yes, but the problem is can I get a custom serial number? the serial number on my saw is "002" I was looking for one that would allow me to make up my own serial, some variation or mk46002 or something along those lines

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3161558#Post3161558

Yeah.. I tried that Ruger said no go I ended up having to break down and buy a 10 22 rifle... dammit

I have recently purchased a conversion kit for a ruger 10/22, which included everything but the receiver and the bolt group(pretty much everything you can buy without a ffl). Upon closer inspection of my kit, I found out that it has a serial number of "00002". My question is is there anyway that I can get a ruger 10/22 receiver made without a top rail (pretty much stock) with this serial? or some variation? any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Oh and by the way, it must be LEGAL

By the way, a little off topic but I had a huge problem with my gsg receiver being a MAGNET for moisture. On a warm day when I was out shooting I had it in its case while i shot other guns, and when I went to grab it it looked like I dipped the gun in a bucket of water and threw it into its case. even on days when it wasnt so bad, if I did not clean it that same day I shot it white crap would form on the outside of the receiver and it looked terrible. I carried the old 522 cocking tube which was made out of the same zinc magnesium alloy as my receiver to my gunsmith and he put a coating over it and told me to test the hell out of it. when I got it back the coating actually worked to protect the metal and keep moisture from accumulating. The white stuff I told you about no longer showed up. With the test a success I sent him my receiver to be coated and we will be back in buisness

Thank you for your insight, I believe that the hammer would exert the force needed to shove the bolt in such a way that the pin could hit. I had forgotten to mention that when the round went off, it was only halfway in the barrel. The rear of the shell desintegrated like you said, leaving the fron half of the shell inside the barrel right at the feed. I had to use a cleaning rod to push it out, and bore scoped the barrel and surprisingly it did not do any damage to the paper thin barrel. we got lucky, but now I have some ideas to prevent and a better understanding of what happened. Thanks for all your help

hold up real quick I wasnt saying anything about the hammer strut mod or the trigger reduction we worked out or anything like that, I should have been more clear and for that I apologize. The gun had aprox 400 rounds through it that day alone, so yes it was dirty. when the weapon misfed, it had the next round (the one that went off with the bolt open) already in the bolt (how that happened I have no idea) it looked like she chambered it, pulled the bolt halfway open, then pulled the trigger. This did not happen as I was watching her shoot from the left side, so I couldnt see that the breech was half open. I am sure it was a freak occurrence, My concern is that the weapon fired ie. the firing pin was released with the breech open with a pull of the trigger. Is there any way to make this weapon not fire unless the breech is fully closed? I beleave that would prevent this kind of occurrence from happening again (the firing part I mean) I will cycle check and snap cap the hell out of it to figure out why it misfed. No disrespect intended, just need a little help from the pro ;)

All right kill I ran into a problem today at the range, well the wife did and see what you make of it. My gsg has dirty, after god knows how many rounds the wife put in it, and we finally had 1 missfeed, which the wife did not know what to do now did she even notice that that breech was not all the way closed because of the misfeed. she pulls the trigger, and I hear a very different "POP" coming from my weapon. I inspected it and everything was fine, the problem is after the mod, the firing pin will release without the bolt being closed. Any ideas how to prevent this from happening? it is not safe being able to fire with the bolt halfway open someone could get real hurt like that

Hey kill I got a question for ya. We have talked over and over about these huge oversized recoil springs, is there anything we can do to easy some of that tension? like you said each of the dual recoil springs has 2wice the power of a 10/22, it would be nice to figure out how to eliminate some of that power to get it down to a happy medium, any thoughts?

All I can say is WOW. Our little mod did wonders!! Nice brisk trigger now, not a"hair" trigger but has a clean break with almost no slack at all!!! 400 rounds no ftf or mishaps I completed all the following mods and the difference is night and day Scew upgrade Firing pin mod Hammer strut mod Return plate mod both top removal and slot for screw sef lower real H&K selector gsg 522-5 conversion kit

GOT IT!!! and i did our mod, going to the range tomorrow will let you know how it goes

no prob... right now I am freaking stuck trying to get this hk selector switch to work, got the hole drilled out right and the trigger pack set correctly in my sef lower, but for the life of me I am having a hard time figuring out EXACTLY where to dremel the selector, and I am trying to get this done and assembled to carry it to the range tomorrow!!!!

You are the man!!! oh hey 1 last question, I cut down my plate all the way to where it starts to bend, all I have is the bottom portion... is this still going to work? I did take out that safety you suggested

I can't find the laser it self, the one can be slightly modded to fit inside the cocking tube.

cant do it cause i cant find it! Everywhere is sold out. is there any kinda replacement??

where can I buy the hk selector switch that everyone is using for the mod? the genuine hk all metal one. I can't find this one anywhere to buy, can someone point me in the right direction??

The firing pin block... or lock you said was not needed, do you have a pic of this? I am having a hard time trying to figure out exactly what part this is, also you said this: That giant firing pin release plate on the left side....once the firing pin lock is tossed out it not only isn't needed but it creates drag on the bolt...grind it down and keep only the bottom portion that operates the trigger return. What is this plate, and how much needs to be grinded off in the event that the firing pin block is removed?