wobblinwheel

Thanks for the heads-up! I really didn't want to use the riser-block if I don't have to.

I've got the Walther PS22 red-dot on mine now, and it is EXCELLENT. Problem is, my right eye is NOT!! I have a small cataract forming that is DEAD CENTER of my field of vision. It actually "breaks up" the red dot into a CLUSTER of dots that completely covers the tatget! Can't use open sights at all (covers the front post entirely). The red dot works fairly well for plinking, but 50 yd target shooting SUCKS. The strange thing is with magnification, I can see PERFECTLY! NO SIGN of a cataract! (American luxury car in JAPAN). Anybody know why that is? Thinking about walking around with binoculars strapped to my head! It looks like it gonna cost a lot of money to get this thing fixed, and I ain't got no insurance...BUMMER! Does the front sight affect 4X magnification at all? Would it still be better with the riser?

I've got a Colt/Umarex M4 CARBINE with the stock front sight (whatever it's called technically). I kinda like the "look" of this sight, so I don't want to change it. I know they have "fold down" sights, etc. Question is: I'm looking at an NCSTAR Mark III Tactical 4x32 "acog" style scope for about $66.00 online. In my research, I noticed the one I'm getting which mounts on the flat top receiver (carry handle removed). On the NCSTAR site, it shows this, but it looks like you're looking RIGHT AT THE FRONT SIGHT! I see a LOT of people on the web (Utube, etc.) using this scope, mounted this way. Tell me this: How come the front sight ain't in the way?? Do you not see it thru the scope? I have a 3/4" RISER BLOCK I could use, but that seems to negate the convenience of the "quick-release" feature on the scope. Anybody using this set-up? How well does it work? I know the quality of the scope is "iffy" at best, but a lot of people have them! I would just rather NOT use the riser block if I don't HAVE to.

I have made a SIGNIFICANT improvement on my "light-strike" issue! As you already know how to fully disassemble the upper receiver, just take it one step further: Separate the upper and lower halves of the BOLT itself by tapping-out the tapered pin holding it together. THEN lift out the firing pin and it's recoil spring. As this is an "inertia" type firing pin, it relies on the "slapping" of the hammer to make it protrude past the bolt face to strike the primer. You will probably notice this spring is excessively STRONG! Shorten this spring by about 1/8" or so, and try it. by doing this on mine, I have all but ELIMINATED misfires! The only RARE misfires I get are bullets that simply WON'T FIRE AT ALL. (no matter how many times you try try to fire them). Be careful NOT to cut too much off the spring at first, as I see the possibility of the firing pin SPLITTING the case! Also, you will notice the little "cheesy" extractor and spring sitting there. Now is a good time to slightly "polish" this little booger with some fine sandpaper, and slightly STRETCH the spring to improve manual extraction in the event of a STUCK round or casing. It ain't much of an extractor, and it needs all the help it can get!

I can go into more detail later, but basically it involves separating the two bolt halves by tapping out one horizontal tapered pin. You will then be able to remove the firiing pin and it's "rebound" spring. I have found this spring to be too STIFF. It actually reduces the striking force on the primer. I SHORTENED my spring about 1/8", and now misfires are nearly a thing of the past! Disassembly to this point is well described in Techmike's earlier post on disassembly for cleaning. Now can be a good time to SRETCH the extractor spring a bit to improve manual extraction as well.

Wish I had a clue how to post pictures! Sad but true....

You are definitely right. Loosen that compensator and watch what happens! Hot barrel does that automatically. I have found that out!

So you can get INSIDE that thing? I've removed the bottom cap, but didn't try heat on the top part. I guess that's where the o-ring is? Boy, does THAT open up possibilities! Know what I mean?

If any of you guys are interested in a fairly easy fix for the LOUSY trigger-pull on the Colt, let me know. It can be done simply by modifying ONE PART. If you follow my lead, there will be NO CHANCE of multiple-firing! Also, if you're having excessive "failure-to-fires" due to "light-strikes" on your primers, I got a fix for that too. These mods require some mechanical skills, so if you can't do it, DON'T TRY IT! If enough people are interested, I'll try to compose an understandable tutorial. It REALLY WORKS if you do it right!

I'll bet she already KNOWS!

That is an idea, the o-ring thing. The Umarex compensator has the oring up INSIDE of it, as it slips OVER the barrel about 4"! How in the WORLD WOULD YOU REPLACE THAT!!?? Wonder if the compensator even has one? I'll need to find out if this thing can be disassembled to get to the oring. So far, it ain't looking good. Now I wonder if some kind of lock washer may help, but then the barrel may not center. Umarex may have an answer, but they don't seem to know a lot about the accessories they sell.

I have found what may be a faster & easier way of getting a pretty thorough cleaning. first, remove the suppressor, then tap-out the receiver pins. Then, after separating the upper from the lower receiver, using the charging handle, pull the bolt/ barrel assembly out. Holding the muzzle-end up, and the bolt locked open, spray automotive carburetor cleaner (using the high-pressure tube on the can) into, and all around the bolt, firing pin, ejector, extractor, and mainspring. Leaving the muzzle UP, set the assembly aside and let it dry thoroughly. When dry, lubricate bolt, firing pin, spring, etc. (sparingly). Reassemble rifle, swab the chamber & barrel with powder solvent, and you're good to go! Carb cleaner is usually strong enough to cut away all the gunk without scrubbing, and dries without leaving a residue. If you can still smell it, it ain't DRY! Oh, by the way, DO THIS OUTSIDE!

Yeah, I noticed in your Cleaning Video, your spring looked a little "kinky"!

THANKS!! IT WORKED! Problem is, I already knew everything it showed me, but it's good to know I did it right. HOWEVER, what kind of pistol grip is that? Where can I get one?!

I'm on Windows 7. Yes, .ppt is at the end of file. Computer says I need to set Power Point as default program to open. But this default is already set.

I checked my programs, and it's there! But it still ain't workin'!

I think (hope) you're right about barrel design being a non-issue. I'm sure this is the case under "normal" usage. However, I have found if you RAPID-FIRE about 20 or so rounds, and immediately try a steady 50 yard target shot, you will likely see quite a stray pattern. You will also notice that after rapid-firing, the suppressor or compensator has gotten noticeably loose. I have the Umarex Compensator on mine, and that in itself makes this REALLY apparent! I guess because you can get such a good GRIP on it! This situation kinda-sorta makes you constantly check for a loose compensator while ripping-off ammo. (not stealing bullets, just shooting fast). I also wonder about possible "metal fatigue" in the flimsy barrel under possible excessive, unintentional tensioning. Another concern regarding the compensator, or anything else threaded to the end of the barrel, is the possibility of unnecessary damage caused by an inadvertent impact to the muzzle, as the threaded portion is so obviously fragile. Anyway, I still gotta ask: "What were they thinking?"

How come I can't open these files??

.......Right next door to KENBRIDGE.........That's where!! Hello to all, Mike Crafton from (you got it) Blackstone, Va., or just call me WOBBLINWHEEL

Looks like good protection for the threads on that little-bitty barrel!

Has anyone here tried the Colt/Umarex "Crane" stock for the M4 rifles with collapsable stocks? It is a VERY nice add-on for sure! Very comfortable cheek rest, and very smooth lines. Also has a rubber butt plate. While they claim it has "storage" compartments on the sides, they are quite USELESS in their "stock" form (pun intended). If you look at the supplied little CAPS that come with the stock, you will notice that a 5/8" O.D. piece of rubber automotive hose will "plug" right in there. Also, if you look inside the compartments on each side of the stock, you will notice a 5/8" diameter "receptacle" at the far end. Well, just cut yourself two pieces of 5/8" O.D. hose (3/8 I.D. I think) and plug one end into the relief in the stock's compartment, and slip the little knob over the other end, give the knob a turn into it's locking notch, and VOILA: You can actually STORE things in there! "How?" you ask? Simply cut necessary "slits" in the sides of the two hoses to hold your various items. Inside my hoses I have: 1. Long Allen wrench for grip removal and spring tension 2. Smaller Allen wrench for everything else. 3. Short wooden dowel for knocking out receiver pins 4. Wrench for removing compensator/ flash-suppressor 5. Small brush for brushing-out bolt/ extractor area 6. and even an extra CR2032 battery for my scope I don't know if this info is helpful, but it took me a while to figure out how I was going to use the "storage cavities" on this otherwise REALLY comfortable and good-looking stock! Even the folks at Umarex weren't aware that these compartments were designed to accept "tubes"! They even told me the knobs should stay in place without them.......NOT VERY WELL! OK, I'm going to take a pill and quit babbling. Hope this helps somebody!

While I haven't personally had any issues (that I know of) with the Colt/Umarex barrel design, simple physics tells me this could be a potential source of TROUBLE! Anyone who is even remotely familiar with the science behind "tensioned" barrels knows how CRITICAL the actual "torque" on said barrel actually is! The theory behind this type of barrel is the ability to "tune" the harmonics of the barrel in order to tweak it's accuracy, somewhat eliminating the need to "bed" the barrel in the stock. adjust barrel length, etc. One thing I do know is the "flimsiness" of the Colt barrel means it relies HEAVILY on proper tension just to keep it STRAIGHT during operation (heat, dirt, expansion, etc.). Although I have not tested this, I guarantee that if you vary the "torque" on your flash suppressor, or even MORE critical, the optional "compensator", you will surely experience drastic changes in your ACCURACY (especially at long distances)! This is why I can't understand why Walther (or Colt) opted for this design. I just read where NRA (American Rifleman Mag.) did comparison reviews on various models of "tactical .22's", and the Colt fared rather poorly in terms of ACCURACY. I can't help but wonder if his barrel tension was TOO LOOSE, or TOO TIGHT? How would you KNOW?? I believe a standard barrel would be CHEAPER to make, and more CONSISTANT as far as accuracy. While Colt acts as if the proper torque on the barrel is NOT all that important, logic dictates that it IS! Has anyone experienced any accuracy issues involving barrel tension? It can also loosen ITSELF due to heat expansion! Technically, the (somehow) use of a TORQUE WRENCH on the flash suppressor would be the only way of insuring consistent accuracy! Am I right? Any thoughts on this?

Cheaper than Dirt has them for $29. Just got one last week. Like it better than 10 or 30 round mags. Looks more like it "belongs" on there!

"Cheaper-Than-Dirt" has them for $29. They seem to be good people. Lot of Umarex stuff at good prices!

I can't seem to download the #@$% file! I've downloaded Powerpoint (twice), but when I try to download the presentation, my computer says "there's no program associated with this file to open it", or something like that......any ideas?