wobblinwheel

I'll be willing to bet they WILL interchange. I got the impression (in so many words) from one of the "gunsmiths" at Umarex that they won't supply any parts that "changes" the rifle in any way. The fact that the stamping for "safe" will no longer be in the right place was a deal breaker for them. "Safety and liability" issues also came up in conversation. Maybe a person with a NEW rifle (and the serial # to prove it) could order these parts, if they could convince those at Umarex that "I lost my parts" as a reason for needing them. Then we could find out for sure.

I tried. They won't send them for an older rifle. Claim they "won't work". I think it's bullsh......

I tried to order those parts for mine. They wouldn't send them. Apparently, you gotta buy a new rifle....

Oh, good grief........where is THIS going?

I know. Teehee....even in a perfect world, if it was raining %#$$&#s, I'd get one with a #$&@ stuck in it!

That statement I made was clearly hypothetical.....

Yeah, really. What would WE do if everything worked??

Thanks, TM. I believe You have "hit the nail on the head". I have been able to disassemble my fake suppressor, and discovered the o-ring, while not broken, was somewhat distorted, and appeared some form of "debris" had gotten between o-ring, barrel, and can. I swapped the o-ring from the original flash-hider, cleaned the areas of contact VERY thoroughly, and re-assembled. Everything is pretty much back to normal now! It's a shame these things weren't designed with a "cone/reverse-cone" setup which would center precisely, without the use of a piece of RUBBER! Just a bad design, methinks... By the way, the "can" can be easily disassembled by heating the muzzle end with a propane torch and using the tool that came with it to unscrew it. Very necessary in this case. Has anyone discovered an over-the-counter o-ring that will work?

Well, I finally decided to give the Colt/Umarex M4 a good cleaning. I removed the Umarex "fake suppressor" that I have on there, and pulled out the "guts" along with barrel (if you can call it that), and gave the innards a good spray-down and lube. After reassembly, I drew a bead on an unsuspecting varmint (squirrel) in my yard, and I MISSED HIM! BY A MILE.......! So I put up a target, 30 yards away, and could barely hit the paper! I was shooting a good three inches low, and a tad to the right. I verified with the laser, open sights, and scope, all shooting low to the right. After re-zeroing all three sights, I'm back to good groups, just like normal. Now I gotta wonder: WHAT HAPPENED? You mean I can't disassemble this rifle, and clean it without having to sight it in AGAIN? Never happened before! I've got index marks on the barrel and suppressor to keep the tension right. I just can't figure it out. The more I deal with this "tensioned barrel" the less I like it.........any ideas???

My (early production) rifle did the same thing TWICE. Each time it was with Remington Golden Bullets. The second time it happened, I thought the bullet cleared the barrel, but it hadn't. The next round hit the bullet halfway down the barrel, and ruined the barrel. I began to realize the Remingtons were sticking in the chamber due to the slightly larger bullet diameter. This is particularly serious in the Colt, as the inner barrel swelled and seized in the outer barrel. VERY difficult to disassemble!! When I called Umarex to get a new barrel, I was informed the newer barrels had a larger chamber diameter, hence the "finickiness" of the early Colts. With my new $110 barrel, my rifle will shoot anything that it wouldn't shoot before, but no more "Golden Bullets" for me! If you own one of the earlier-production Colt's, and it's REALLY particular as to what it will shoot, I highly recommend one of the new barrels, or a chamber reamer. The "European" barrel does have issues with some ammo!

Didn't Jesus do that as well? Oh, and I think the music is by Marilyn Manson......right?

Just purchased a box of "American Eagle" 45 gr. CPRN Subsonic "Suppressor" .22 lr ammo. At 25-30 yards, this stuff is AMAZING! The stated muzzle velocity is 970 fps, and is VERY quiet (especially suppressed). It cycles perfectly in my Colt/Umarex M4, even with the bolt spring turned-in six turns, which also works fine with hi-velocity ammo. Oddly enough, they look EXACTLY like CCI Mini-Mags, even though they have an "F" on the base (Federal). I have shot two squirrels with them already, and to be a solid round nose, the impact was devastating! One hell of a "THUD"! I believe the groups I'm getting at 30 yds, is the best I've seen so far. Very clean, too. I'm guessing the extra weight of the bullet accounts for it's flawless cycling and it's flat trajectory at shorter distances. So much more accurate than hi-velocity, it ain't funny! You guys need to try this one! I hate to say it, but I paid $9.95 a box (50), just out of curiosity. Now I need to find some at a more REASONABLE price! Midway advertises them at $28.00 a brick, but they're not in stock (imagine that). I've seen 'em on GunBroker for as much as $119.00 a brick!!(500). This is just CRAZY!!!!

TM, mine "plonks" just fine, since I got a new barrel. The chamber diameter is larger in the new ones. That is why they were so "ammo finicky" in the beginning. They told me the first-run Colts had a "European match barrel and chamber", which was more suited (technically) for a bolt-action rifle. Many bullets had to be "shoved" into the chamber! While the bore diameter and twist is the same, the chamber is larger. Didn't affect accuracy, but now it will shoot and cycle just about anything, Remington Golden Nightmares included! Hence the new barrel. A Golden Bullet stuck in the chamber going in, out-of-battery "explosion", and a round stuck in the middle of the barrel. Next shot....oooops! Although they clearly don't "stick" now, no more Remington for me! I think the whole problem with manual extraction is the fact the Smith works so good......and mine don't!

Mine looks just like yours. I increased the spring tension a long time ago, since it was working so poorly before. When my rifle was new, I was getting a lot of misfires. That's when I had such an issue with the extractor not pulling out the unfired bullets. I increased the spring tension, and it worked better, but not great. I can manually eject about half a 20 round mag, hit and miss. The S&W's extractor has a LOT of spring tension, and has no bevel on the end. I can "shuck" the entire 25 round magazine as fast as I can work the bolt. Really pisses me off that it works so good! Damn plastic toy rifle.........anyway, maybe I'll try a lighter spring, just for giggles. Why it turns loose a little ways out of the chamber is beyond me, AND the pin holding the bolt halves together is starting to get loose, and back-out. Gonna have to stake it in next time. I can't quite figure why a looser spring would work better, but worth a try. I would like a new extractor to work with. The guy at Umarex didn't seem surprised that I was having trouble.........?

TM, the extractor actually does not have a "hole" where it pivots. It sets in a slot and just "rocks" back-and-forth under spring tension on one side. I have disassembled and cleaned the bolt, and checked the extractor and spring tension. Plenty of tension, made sure of that. Now I wonder if the extractor is TOO pointed. It has the proper "hook" where it catches the rim, but it's also made to a POINT (thickness wise) on the end. Because of this, very little is actually holding the rim. The one on the S & W is the same thickness as the rest of it at the end, allowing a wider contact area. Maybe this is the modification Umarex is talking about. He was talking "filing" something, but not specific. They did not have a new extractor or spring in stock. I like to have a "back-up", when I go to "filing" stuff! Is your extractor POINTED on the end? As in SHARP? It seems to me it needs to be WIDER on the end. I don't shoot "Hyper-velocity" ammo in my rifle, mostly standard velocity CCI, which is quieter as it doesn't break the sound barrier. (Wal-Mart gets it here) and it's more accurate than anything else I've shot. Winchester 555 and 333 shoot good too, but not as accurate. My rifle also has a new barrel, which has a larger chamber diameter, which allows it to cycle EVERYTHING without issue. Much better than the original barrel! ($100.00)

I wrapped the barrel in leather and clamped it in a vise, put a snug-fitting wrench on there, and smacked it with a hammer. Loosened right up!

Does anybody other than me have trouble with the Colt/Umarex/Walther(and whomever else) M4 rifle's extractor? I've had my rifle for several years now, and it's extractor has always worked about 50% of the time. I tried increasing the spring tension a long time ago, which helped a little, but still when I have to manually extract a misfire, or just unload the chamber, many times I have to try several times to get the bullet out. Sometimes I've actually had to push it out with a cleaning rod. Rather inconvenient. I was beginning to get over it UNTIL I bought my girlfriend a SMITH & WESSON M&P 15-22 rifle! It will manually extract any bullet anytime without fail! The extractor design, spring tension, bolt-face recess seem nearly IDENTICAL. The Colt will pull the bullet nearly HALF-WAY OUT and then just turn it loose! No chance of successfully extracting a bullet with the magazine still in the gun! The S&W will manually extract & eject the entire magazine without a hitch. The folks at Umarex say they can "modify" the extractor to make it work, IF I send the rifle to them. I ain't gonna do that (they did say REPLACING the extractor wouldn't work, they're all the same). Have any of you had this "modification", or have done something yourselves that made the extractor work consistently? I was thinking this was just a "characteristic" of a .22 semi-auto, until I got my hands on this damn Smith&Wesson.......

I got a FREE 300 round box of these from Smith and Wesson. It was some sort of "promo" since I had just bought a new rifle. Haven't shot them yet, but I'll let you know when I do.

Maybe you're going there at the wrong time? Here, oddly enough, all ammo shipments were showing up late at night. After 8 or 9 pm. Just so happens I usually shop there after these times, and would check the ammo situation each time. I think it was luck on my part, as many times they would sell out before I even left the store!

Me and my gurl just bought six boxes of Winchester "333" .22lr hollow point from Wally World for $17.00 per box. Not bad! Went to buy dog food, and came home with nearly 2000 rounds of ammo! Week before that bought six 100 round boxes of CCI Mini Mags for $7.48 per box, and before that, CCI Standard Velocity "Target" in 50 round boxes for $2.47 per box. Wal Mart is the way to go for .22!

Don't have a "d ring". Have the externally-threaded Colt barrel nut.

I found one online from "Woodbury Outfitters". It is the original Colt/umarex part #2245113 for $103.99. This one should screw directly onto my existing barrel nut. The one I have on there is the Umarex one that is "carbine length". This one should be the same, except longer. This one also goes over the "compensator" with plenty of clearance. I just didn't really want to spend this much money on it, but comparatively speaking, I guess it's not such a bad deal. I would surely like the idea of a "quick-change" setup!

I looked at your install pdf and noticed you have the Colt "compensator". I do too. Does it fit inside the rail without making contact? Definitely need to keep things "free-floating" on this rifle!

TM, any chance you know whether or no yours will thread onto the Colt's external barrel nut threads that came with the Colt RIS? I would like to thread mine on without removing the nut.

Does anybody have the longer (M16 or "s.p.r.") Colt/Umarex "R.I.S." rail interface system, in other words, quad rail foregrip, that you want to get rid of? I've got the shorter carbine version to accomodate the sight, but I want to remove the sight and have the rails extend to the back end of the "compensator" that I have on there. The Umarex one should screw right onto the threaded barrel nut I already have. I have some good stuff to trade for one, or will pay a reasonable price, if not too "spensive". Don't need barrel nut or rail covers that it comes with.