Popcop45

Would a standard AR-15 retractable stock fit the 522/556 carbines?

Well, this afternoon I shot my GSG-5 for the first time after the trigger mod - and although it preformed well, I did not like what I saw. Heavy gun powder residue on all of the casings and on the chamber (ammo did not change). After 22 rounds, my chamber was jet black, and the casings were two tone black and brass. Prior to the mod, one of the things I noticed and impressed me the most was how clean the chamber would stay after running several magazines through it. Not sure what shortening the trigger pull did to make this happen. If this isn't happen to the rest of you, then it has to be because of my near zero slack. Tomorrow I'll try to adjust it so there is slightly more slack.

We had a shooting involving the .22LR in our jurisdiction just a few days ago. I can not get too specific because it is still an open case but here are some facts: 13 year old male took a single .22LR round from a six inch barrel pistol. Non contact range. The round entered the soft tissue just posterior of the chin. It continued through the nasal cavity into the cerebral cortex. The round stopped just short of exiting the top of the skull. Although there was not much blood loss, the victim was pronounced deceased within 5 minutes of the call. As soon as I hear the ammo type I will update the post.

Thank you for the detail explanation. I am done with my mod. Took me a little while since at first I left the screw out too far. A quick trip to Ace for the longer screw and I was done. The trigger slack is completely gone. I will test it out tomorrow. Picture one shows the OEM screw too far out. Picture two shows the longer screw from Ace with a nut serving as a spacer.

Killibreaux, Do you think this will put a little extra wear on the sear spring since it will have slight constant depression? I was thinking maybe a slightly stronger spring? Your thoughts...

Wow, I 've been missing out on this (busy messing with my M1 Carbine). Great mod! I am going to get right on it. My GSG-5 / HK94 has been shooting butter smooth since the hammer strut mod. Killibraeux, what about a longer screw with a spacer just to keep some torque in the area of the backed out screw?

Edgecrusher, this mod is not as difficult as all these back and forth post may make it seem. However, if you feel you are not up to it don't try it. The good part is, if you ever feel you want to give it a try, purchase a hammer, and a hammer strut from ATI customer service, and start dremeling. If you mess up, you can always put the original parts back. As for the feeding issues you stated, are they happening with different magazines as well? Have you tried the polishing of the chamber we've recommended?

http://www.robertrtg.com/g3selectorlever.html You won't find it cheaper. Make sure it's the selector for the polymer lower-it's the longer one.

You should not have a rattle. The magazine safety lever rested on a detention in the trigger plate only. Check your trigger assembly again. I wouldn't add anything in there that wasn't OEM. Compare it to the ones here. Notice there are no marks on this lever.

Nice work on the hammer SnakeWrangler. Here is a little treat for you guys... THE FOLLOWING IS A TACTICAL22.net EXCLUSIVE. Now I shall reveal my polishing method. I can not stress enough, the improvement of the action when certain parts are polished and buffed out This is for the experienced armorer. Do not attempt if you lack any armorer skills. The following tools and materials needed: Dremel tool dremel 414 polishing bits x2 (may use more) Ryobi white rouge buffing compound (H) 2-5 microns Flitz metal polish a cotton rag (i used old t-shirt) WARNING: All parts need to be removed prior to being polished. Polish parts AWAY from your other parts--compound will splatter! Wear safety goggles and keep mouth closed or wear a dust mask. Parts I polished: Hammer ( contact surfaces) Hammer Strut ( where the srtut contacts the hammer) Sear -contact points (you need a punch to remove the pin) Bottom of breech bolt (where the breech contacts the hammer for engagement. Use one buffing wheel for each compound. Start with ryobi and buff out with cotton rag. Make sure the part is free of any ryobi residue before applying the Flitz polish. Note: If you run the dremel at high speed 45 seconds should suffice. On low, over 1 minute. After the Flitz you will see the part you polished looks like jewelry, and is the smoothest thing your fingers have ever touch. Put your parts back together and take it out for a test.

The spring may be in but the bolt stop may not be seated properly. Pull your breech out and check the bolt stop to make sure it is properly seated on the breech block. What brand ammo are you using?

Shot another hundred flawless rapid fire rounds yesterday. It's amazing how clean my GSG stays with CCI Mini Mags. You could barley tell the guns' been fired. Polishing the feed ramp helped tremendously as well. :grin:

Is that with the magazine in or out? Take pics and submit as much as you can-we'll walk you through.

Well there is only one thing left to say; Sweeeeeet modification!!! i just took her out to the range today. Not only does the trigger feel smoother (all the polishing paid off) but the over all functioning and cycling of the action feels so much better as well. The casings were found around 17 to 20 feet from where I was shooting. Thanks to you Kilibreaux, all the time money and effort I put into my SEF lower has paid off! Can't wait to take her out again tomorrow!

I see what you meant by self extraction. If I pull the slide back fast (not nearly as fast as id the gun was actually cycling during fire) the round pops out of the chamber just from the speed of the retracting bolt. I didn't take a photo but I also re-shaped the grind of the hammer more to the angle of the sear. The trigger action feels sooo much smoother. I have 29 years of firearms experience but never got into modifications or armory until I acquired my GSG-5. Then again come to think of it, I never had to prior to the GSG-5. Thank you for all the help, you are a wealth of f knowledge. I can't wait to take her out to the range.

I thought maybe inertia had something to do with it. So you think there should be no ejection issues once live ammo is fired through correct? I know my extractor works fine because when I replace my SEF lower with the factory lower; with the OEM trigger pack (unmodified) ejects a live round with no problems. That is why I though maybe the force of the hammer against the breech was possibly forcing the cartridge further in that intended. Kilibraeux, does your GSG eject live rounds?

DONE! No play at all. The instant the cocking tube contacts the breech the resistance from the hammer is felt. I didn't grind the return notch in in angle that you did, but I made sure it was buffed and smooth. Kilibreaux, does your GSG-5 eject a unfired round? Mine would not even eject a fired cartridge. I think the bolt is slamming the round in chamber too hard, and it is not giving the ejector enough to grab and eject the cartridge. If i place a spent shell in the chamber and ride the bolt forward it ejects fine. If I just let the slide slam forward, it will fail to eject. Could it be the angle of my grind? :confused:

I am hoping this isn't a problem later. This is prior to trigger return notch being removed. Looks like the hammer was striking the front of the trigger housing. Pictures are slightly blurred but notice the mark on the hammer and the mark at the front of the left trigger plate. I also noticed that even with the notch present the hammer would stay forward of it due to the absence of a return spring.

Gotcha. Thank you. :thumb:

Okay, here are mine. I still have the 1/4" gap in the slide before contact with the hammer. Also, I noticed that the sear won't allow the hammer to go vertical. The trigger pull did feel a heck of a lot smoother though. Hammer return spring is out. Where did I go wrong?

No rant at all; but a wealth of information. I am actually thinking of a way to create a animation video of the complete function cycle of the GSG-5. I wish there was one out there already. Check out the last 2 minutes of this MP5 video where 'Gunny' explains the three basic types of machine gun operation: http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x8ri9x_tv-mail-call-mp5_sport. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge, and I will post play by play pics later.

Do you mean those two long springs in the bolt carrier? Do you think it will have a negative effect if I left them in? My breech body is lock tight down pretty good.

That is great innovation! I am going to try it tonight. I bet that slight rearward slant the hammer has in de-cock mode is gone after the mod as well. How many rounds do you have on the mod? One thing I did (don't know if this helps any) but I polished all of the action contact surfaces. I even went as far as polishing the sear, the lower portion of the hammer that locks into the sear. It is amazing how smooth the metal becomes; smoother than glass. I have yet to fire mine since the polishing. I will keep you posted on the hammer strut mod with pics. This way you can correct me if I did something wrong. Thank you for all the info.

How much more forward? Any pics? I just happen to have a spare hammer strut I may experiment with.

Call 800-290-0065 9-5 mon-fri eastern time. They will be glad to take your order. Helps if you have the part sheet in front of you when you call.