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Nasty black crusty crap in action???

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Ok didn't know where to post this so since I have a 416 I posted here.

After I got my 416 I completely stripped it and cleaned it Went out and fired maybe 200 rounds through it got home and the entire action has a sandy crunch sound to it, Started cleaning it and saw the action was completely covered in black residue so I completely stripped it again. Put it back together fired 20 rounds and the sound and gunk is back.

Is this normal for a .22??

can this be remedied??

any tips for keeping it clean??


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Hoppe's #9 powder solvent or Outers powder solvent or- - -

Put the powder solvent on a paper towel,  patches cut/torn to the size of the palm of your hand,  begin cleaning.  Use an old tooth brush with powder solvent,  too.

Field strip the gun.  Small parts can be soaked in powder solvent and then scrubbed with a tooth brush.  Q-Tips can help.

Get a bronze brush for the bore in .17 or .18 caliber (for a 22LR or 223 Rem;  a 22 cal brush for 30 cal);  wrap it in strips of paper towel so it is a comfortable tight fit in the bore and swab the bore.  Preferably push the swab down the bore from chamber to muzzle,  remove the swab before withdrawing the cleaning rod,  wrap the brush with new paper towel,  wet with solvent,  repeat until it all seems clean.  Be aware that if it is necessary to push the swab from the muzzle,  a bore guide is highly desirable to help protect both the muzzle crown and the lands near the muzzle.

Never use a steel/stainless steel brush.  It can/will damage the bore and everything else.

Use a lot of gun oil. 

I make my own gun oil from Mobil One 10W-30 Full Synthetic and add 20%-30% Kroil (some gun shops,  MidwayUSA,  some hardware stores or hardware sections of big-box chain stores sell Kroil).  This oil will leave molecules of the synthetic oil in the surface pores of the metal and help cleaning in the future.  Kroil is a super-penetrant that will help clean everything,  maybe a bit slowly.  Kroil needs minutes,  hours,  in extreme cases,  days to work.  Think:  5 minutes to overnight.  (I once cleaned old gunked-up gun parts with years of black powder residue just by letting them sit in a puddle of the motor oil/Kroil inside a small Zip-Lock for 15 minutes.)

A pint can of Kroil should last a very long time when mixed with the Full Synthetic motor oil.  Full Synthetic motor oil is a small amount of actual synthetic oil and a lot of solvent oils (and a lot of other things needed for it all to work properly in the heat and corrosive atmosphere inside a car engine).  'Dino' motor oil will not do the job.  A small oil can is available at Harbor Freight or wherever else.  (Standard warning:  do not put synthetic oils in high-mileage car engines.) 

When I go shooting,  I push a dry swab through the bore as close to shooting time as practical.  Then there will be 5 throw-away rounds of any 22 caliber or 2-3 rounds of a 30 cal cartridge to 'clear' synthetic oils from the bore.  After that everything is fine.  I use Hoppe's during shooting/hunting for interim cleaning of the bore and back to the home-made oil when the gun goes back into the gun safe.  The full synthetic oil is too slick for the bullets to have proper resistance while sliding down the bore.

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Unburned powder?  I have a 10-22 and an almost antique Hi-Standard auto pistol and have never been aware of unburned powder granules.  I can only ask:  is the bolt staying adequately closed long enough during the firing cycle?

I am not at all familiar with the 416,  but maybe a spring that needs be stiffer?  Perhaps try posting the question in IE on the home page box and see what might turn up?

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  • 1 month later...

Too much lube in the receiver will cause carbon and unburnt powder residue to build up..........I have the Walther Colt C 4 which is the same as the 416 and I very lightly lube the bolt and other rubbung parts.....No lube in the bore.....If it looks lubed, it's too much.

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