techmike

No problems with the install, the nut threaded right on to the Colt. I guess that proves the Colt has airsoft in it's design! I like the rail very much, it is licensed by Troy, and made in Taiwan. Hope it holds up!

Got it installed last night, pics will be up tonight after work. I really like it!

My order from AirSoft GI arrived today, wishing I could stay home from work and install this rail! Looks just like the "real" one from Troy industries, same accessories, ect. - except it is labeled "milsim only". It is an aluminum alloy, but must be a softer alloy than the "real" ones. Will get it installed tonight and post some pictures.

Howdy, looking forward to that picture!

Excellent! :thumb:

Welcome, and nice looking rifle! Does it shoot those Thunderbolts OK?

I have one on order, due in Friday.

Not a good idea.

Well crap! Let us know how it turns out. :confused:

Kinda reminds one of Rodent's picture posts.......

Greetings and thanks for your service. I used to live in OB when I was stationed at 32nd St. I do miss San Diego!

Looks like they are tapered pins, and the rounded ends are smaller. If you have a caliper you could verify that, but from here it looks like you will need to drive them out from the rounded side. What i do with pins that won't budge is to take a punch and shorten it to where it only has about a half inch of punch left and start the pins with that, once started you can drift them out with a longer one. Good luck!

You did say M-16 didn't you.... my bad - I was thinking of a free floating handguard like on the M4. The spring loaded handguard is most likely putting pressure on the front sight and pins. BTW, without the front sight, there is nothing to hold the handguards in place unless you switch to a free floating style handguard. Can you post a picture of your rifle and maybe a close-up of the front sight?

Cool. So is this one steel? I have not seen the specs.

I have two AR type sights in my parts box, the one with solid pins is from an AR. The Colt/Umarex sight has roll pins, and can be driven out with a correctly sized punch and a small mallet. A bench block is always handy for this task, and Brownells also sells one specifically for AR sight removal. I have the blue one, and that is what I used. So a nice padded work surface, punch, mallet, bench block, separate the upper & lower receivers, remove the flash hider, and be careful to NOT bump the end of the barrel. If you do, the magazine catch spring and bolt can come loose and/or get damaged. I know this to be factual. ;D And of course, make sure it is unloaded before you start! C:-)

Good luck, please keep us advised and take B4 & after pics!

Well, they will sell you anything you order and pay for. ;D If I remember correctly, (always a problem with me), the pins are tapered, and only drive out one way. Look to see if the pins are larger in diameter on one side, if yes, drive them out from the smaller side. If they look the same on both sides, drive them out from either side. I disassembled mine pretty completely to remove the sight and dura-coat it after. If you choose to do the same, be advised it will void your warranty. Always a consideration with a new $500 rifle.....

I have used Dura Coat several times, and am pleased with the result. Except for the super duper ultra matte that I used on a PK380 - it is so matte that it picks up minute particles of leather from the holster. I use an air brush and my 20 gal compressor, I simply added a second regulator to reduce the pressure for the air brush. I have some CerroCoat but have not tried it yet. Mr Smurff is correct, there are canned air supplies for dura coat, but I would reccomend the compressor for consistant pressure, especially for a big job. (long gun) FYI, make sure your air brush is rated for the solvent used to clean up. My first air brush had all of the seals dissolve and dissappear. :o

Glad it is a good shooter! Now for the bad news..... The front sight is pinned to the barrel shroud. You can remove it, but it leaves two big ugly holes in the barrel shroud. FYI, I removed mine, filled the holes with agra-glass, sanded it smooth, and dura-coated the shroud. The "compensator" from Colt - the faux suppressor - is for the M4 & M4 Ops models only. Never knew why, as I have an M4 and it fits fine on mine, before & after I removed the front sight.

Couldn't find the thread, and my bookmark to the maker is dead, so am guessing the guy isn't in business anymore. Also guessing I may have one of the very few made brakes that thread directly on the Colt.

Thanks, looks just like the one I put on my AR. What are these made from, all I can find is "lightweight material".

Where can I check them out? I would be very interested in a Troy TRX. Thx, TM

Yes it is. :thumb: How does it shoot?

Thanks Drew, I will check it out.

Ahhh. If you read the instruction manual, it specifies loosening the flash hider before removing the rear pin to open the gun. The reason: The Colt only looks like an AR. The flash hider is threaded to the barrel, but the actual barrel is a steel insert inside the barrel shroud. When it is tight, the flash hider pulls the guts of the gun into alignment. If you look at the exploded view in your manual, or HERE, you can see how it all connects together. When you loosen the flash hider to break open the gun, and then re-tighten it, try to tighten it consistently every time, and you will have more consistent accuracy. I put a dimple on mine with a center punch to get it back in the same spot every time. Hope that helps.