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Screw upgrade kit installation instructions


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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks, I'm thinking if its just one size to deal with Ill just get a box of screws and nuts at the local Nutty Company. It will be cheaper and Ill have a lot of spares. If there's more than one or two different lengths the economics may not work. I also like the idea of selecting the brand and grade myself. Its just anal habits left over from my day job

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  • 1 month later...

Copied this info off of arfcom from this link ... some good instructions with pictures if you are considering this mod and want to pick up the hardware on your own instead of getting a kit put together from rrages.com. Hope this info helps out.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=41&t=244302

Summary of what to get when shopping at the hardware store:

(12) - m3 hex nuts

(11) - m3 hex head, .50 thread pitch, 12mm long

(1) - m3 hex head, .50 thread pitch, 16mm long

(2) - m2.5 hex nuts

(2) - m2.5 heax head, .45 thread pitch, 12mm long

Location:

(4) m3 12mm, with nuts, for the trigger assembly

(3) m3 12mm, with nuts, for the bolt assembly

(4) m3 12mm, with nuts for the main reciever

(1) m3 16mm, with nut - this is the barrel screw (you need this one 16mm to be long enough for the nut to attach

(2) m2.5 12mm, with m2.5 nuts for the bolt assemby (these are the slightly smaller screw on the bolt assembly, they have a star hex that is a pain to get out, definately worth it to replace these as they strip easily.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have to say I am a little disappointed with the rrages.com screw upgrade kit. I think George Shepard needs to look at all the improvements on the new SD's and put together a specific kit for that particular rifle. The 3 most important screws to replace are the bolt jacket screws and the ones provided in my kit are WAY shorter than the existing screws in my bolt assembly. Also, in the online instructions, he states that the OEM screws are phillips head screws; mine are T10 torx screws on my new SD and were a real b#t@h to remove. I highly doubt they would've loosened and failed due to shooting the rifle. I am going to contact him on Monday and let him know the situation, just so he knows.

On a happier note, the charging handle buffer and HK pin set were well thought out and relatively easy to install.  :thumb:

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  • 6 months later...

Okay I have some input on this topic.

The factory supplied tool is too pointed and tends to not engage the cross-point type screws well.  There is Phillips and then there is cross-point.  Phillips has a shallow, blunt depth as does a Phillips screwdriver.  A crosspoint screw driver is much more pointed, however the supplied tool seems too pointed.  I grabbed a proper crosspoint screw driver and found the screws easy to engage without gouging the heads.  I see the term "stripping" but that generally refers to damaged THREADS, not the head/tool interface.  I have considered the replacement screws however a point of note is that as long as the receiver has threads, adding a nut on the other side doesn't really provide anything positive.  The nut must be aligned so it engages the screw as the optimum point for best contact with the receiver but this is highly unlikely.

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Anyone who has ever set up a jam-nut knows that when you add a nut outside a threaded hole the problem is that the screw will more often than not snug up in the threaded hole before it tightens into the nut.  For this reason perhaps some will desire to swap the crosspoint style screw for hex drive, but unless the threads inisde the aluminum receiver are reamed out, adding a nut is of virtually no value.  I would recommend blue locktite on the screws and get on shooting.

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  • 4 months later...

Anyone who has ever set up a jam-nut knows that when you add a nut outside a threaded hole the problem is that the screw will more often than not snug up in the threaded hole before it tightens into the nut.  For this reason perhaps some will desire to swap the crosspoint style screw for hex drive, but unless the threads inisde the aluminum receiver are reamed out, adding a nut is of virtually no value.  I would recommend blue locktite on the screws and get on shooting.

Excellent point. The nuts will just be there hanging on a few threads. I'll save the nuts in the event that the receiver threads ever give out. Anyone out there torquing the reviver screws?

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  • 1 year later...

I have to say I am a little disappointed with the rrages.com screw upgrade kit. I think George Shepard needs to look at all the improvements on the new SD's and put together a specific kit for that particular rifle. The 3 most important screws to replace are the bolt jacket screws and the ones provided in my kit are WAY shorter than the existing screws in my bolt assembly. Also, in the online instructions, he states that the OEM screws are phillips head screws; mine are T10 torx screws on my new SD and were a real b#t@h to remove. I highly doubt they would've loosened and failed due to shooting the rifle. I am going to contact him on Monday and let him know the situation, just so he knows.

On a happier note, the charging handle buffer and HK pin set were well thought out and relatively easy to install.  :thumb:

I am in the same boat here and happy I found your post!

I was taking on the task of replacing the screws on my new SD and my opinions are in line with yours.  I stopped and left everything stock and am considering reaching out to George myself.

Did you speak with him about this?

Great forum btw!

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  • 4 years later...

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